Buying a Custom Suit
Unless you’re buying off the rack for something specific (like a wedding or a job interview) – or have really bad body shape – most guys will get more value out of a made-to-measure suit. Many modern “custom” suit brands like Oliver Wicks, Black Lapel, Knot Standard, Indochino & others use online measuring tools to allow you to submit your own measurements or go to a showroom for an in-person fitting. Then your suit is sent to a factory (usually in China) where it’s sewn together and shipped to you 3-6 weeks later.
This is typically less expensive than going to a full-custom tailor. However, the quality can vary significantly. It’s important to find a good tailor who understands the importance of good raw inputs like linings, buttons, surgeon’s cuffs etc. All Oliver Wicks suits are half canvassed with pad-stitched lapels, which improve the drape & durability of the fabric, and create a more gently curved appearance on the lapel roll than fused suits.
Other details to consider are whether you want padded shoulders (spalla camicia) or a more natural shoulder/arm blend. And whether you want a single-breasted jacket or a double-breasted one.
You can also ask your local tailors if they make custom suits. This can be a great option if you have a strong connection with your tailor and want to work with someone who can offer personalized recommendations & advice. However, they may be limited to the fabrics and styles available at their shop & the tailoring skills they have. Custom suit